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Elucidator-Kirito's blade-SAO

Elucidator-Kirito's blade-SAO

by blamb | updated April 19, 2014

So I've been itching to make something from one of my favorite animes, Sword Art Online, lately. I don't know why but something about it make me wish i were there. I've been lucky enough to be able to have this count as my art final as well! Personal project turning useful! I decided on the Elucidator because it has the most info on dimensions and it should be easier. The difficulty comes with the fact that in the anime, the swords light up when they use sword skills, and it would be difficult to get a BLACK sword to suddenly light up into multicolors, So I talked with a friend, Bryan Manguson, and we decided the best thing was to just put the lights around the sword, since there's already a clearish silver edge, so that's the plan!

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So I've been itching to make something from one of my favorite animes, Sword Art Online, lately. I don't know why but something about it make me wish i were there. I've been lucky enough to be able to have this count as my art final as well! Personal project turning useful! I decided on the Elucidator because it has the most info on dimensions and it should be easier. The difficulty comes with the fact that in the anime, the swords light up when they use sword skills, and it would be difficult to get a BLACK sword to suddenly light up into multicolors, So I talked with a friend, Bryan Manguson, and we decided the best thing was to just put the lights around the sword, since there's already a clearish silver edge, so that's the plan!

October 3, 2013 at 11:50 PM
Comments (2)
cool! I wonder if aniketosen's project might be helpful. http://buildinprogress.herokuapp.com/projects/183/steps
about 3 years ago
Nice! Also, excellent choice of anime.
about 3 years ago

This is a picture of the sword being recreated.

 

We, my rommates and friends, went to Home Depo to get some,

Medium Density Fiberboard

thinner wood

Plexiglas

glitter paint

gorilla wood glue

and a metal rod.

And on Amazon I ordered;

a replacement tennis grip

and some LED light strips that change colors

 

10/5/13

got a plexiglass cutter

some super glue (for wood,metal, glass)

and some painter's tape :D

October 4, 2013 at 12:03 AM
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So I found a picture of the sword online, enlarged it. then took a ton of measurements based on the scaling and the dimensions of the sword found on the internet. It was kind of a pain but it came out alright. 

October 4, 2013 at 2:17 AM
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Going to trace the scaled paper sword onto a piece of the thinner wood so that it can be cut with the band saw at WPI's collablab. Once that is traced out and cut, I can make a thinner version and cut the MDF to be a smaller core with a shape close to that of the sword.

October 4, 2013 at 2:21 AM
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Was able to take the boards that I had traced the sword on and got them cut and sanded at the Collablab. Learned how to use a band saw, drill press, and a power sander. The blades came out thinner than the paper version, but it's alright, they don't need to be perfect, and i can adjust the rest of the build to compensate. But overall I'm not too worried about the blades, they came out alright.

October 5, 2013 at 1:45 AM
Comments (3)
wow, you cut the detail in the handle on a band saw? it looks great!
about 3 years ago
well, we were able to cut most of it on the band saw, but for the details near the end, we used a drill press to make the line easier to break apart and then A TON of sanding/filing was done after to make the blade faces as identical as possible.
about 3 years ago
ah ok, that makes sense. it turned out really nicely. are you planning to double up to make the sword thicker and sturdier?
about 3 years ago

So, I traced out the larger sword from the previously cut one and measured 3/16th inward all around the sword. This allows for the thinner piece to be more accurate according to the larger blade faces, This piece is going to be the "core" of the sword and be sandwiched by the other two blade faces. I left the bottoms part untouched so tat it'll match up with the sword faces later on. I also marked the mid point of the blade where I will want to drill a hole so that I can stick the metal rod through it. Just need to get that part cut, might need to have this be cut into multiple sections so that I can drill the hole deep enough for the rod. 

October 6, 2013 at 2:46 AM
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Scaled the smaller hilt design onto another sheet of paper, which then got transferred onto another sheet of wood. 

I then went to the Collablab with my friend Sultan. We had tried to cut out the sword but the band saw wasn't working, as could be seen the pictures of one of lab monitors checking the bandsaw's inner mechanics.

We were able to get the hilt bits cut out. You can see the final parts, and how they fit onto the larger blade face.

October 6, 2013 at 6:07 PM
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So I had gotten the hole in the handle out b y using a drill press and drilling the outline of the shape with drill holes. and then pushing it out a mallet. 

The trouble came when I tried to make a hole for the metal rod. The drill press was not long enough to make it all the way down the sword so i thought it was a good idea to cut the sword into parts and drill holes down through each section of the cut blade and then place all the pieces together on the rod. In hindsight this was not the best idea and it led to the wood cracking and me trying to fix it with wood glue.

October 7, 2013 at 1:31 AM
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Was going with the plan to stick a metal rod in the middle of the sword to keep it extra sturdy. 

I was able to get the sword cut with a stronger bandsaw and it was awesome after. Still needed to get the hole out of the sword though.

October 7, 2013 at 1:13 PM
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Was able to quickly trace the messed up sword core onto another piece of MDF, this time WITH a handle, and i was able to have that cut out as well.

The cut wasn't super accurate so I'll just have to cut/sand it down myself as well as getting the hole out of the sword hilt.. 

October 8, 2013 at 3:08 PM
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Took the blade faces and hilt designs and got them spray painted black to match the color of kirito's. 

October 8, 2013 at 5:06 PM
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Looked at the picture of the sword and tried to mimic the designs on the blade and hilt faces. They didn't come out perfect but what can i say, I'm not an expert painter

October 10, 2013 at 2:50 AM
Comments (1)
if you had access to a vinyl cutter or laser cutter, you can cut out a stencil for the hilt and paint around it. just a thought!
about 3 years ago

Was able to get the hole out of the sword, again with the drill press and I was also able to smooth the corners of the handle to make it fit better in someone's hand

October 10, 2013 at 3:30 AM
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Used wood glue to get the blade faces and the hilt designs onto the MDF sword. Came out pretty well in my opinion.

October 12, 2013 at 2:28 PM
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Took the LED strips that i bought off amazon, The sticky adhesive wasn't strong enough for them to stay on the MDF through the turns and corners so I used super glue :P.

The problem I always have with super glue is that It always magically get all over my fingers and gives me a hard time. Thankfully one of my floor mates, April, had some nail polish remover and I was able to get most of it off,

I tested the the blade and its lights and it's turning out pretty cool. On video it has more of the "solid line" kind of light around the blade, that I was hoping to be in real life. In real life though the LEDs can be seen and you see more of colorful lit up dots instead of a straight solid line of light,

I left the LED plug in near the handle so that I could attach the controller part more easily,

October 12, 2013 at 2:33 PM
Comments (1)
wow the LEDs looks great! and that's a nice tip with the nail polish remover; I always get super glue all over my hands too.
about 3 years ago

Painted the end of the handle black to keep with the black Elucidator look, because I knew i wouldn't be able to get the grip to extend to the very bottom butt of the sword.  Also got the hold in the hilt painted black since wouldn't have anything covering it and to stick with the black sword look.

I used the wrap that I had gotten off amazon, measured out the amount needed to wrap the whole handle and cut the rest off. The extra grip was then wrapped around the bottom of the handle so that we could create a pommel for the sword. Then we wrapped the rest of the grip around the handle making it so that most of the connecting wire would be hidden underneath the grip and that only the connector was sticking out. The grip has a nice feel to it.

October 13, 2013 at 2:12 AM
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To get the "solid light up blade" look I was told to coat the plexiglass with some greyish paint and that metallic glitter paint would work.We had gotten some at home depo and now it's testing time. I painted onto a part of the plexiglass that had broken off and put it in front of the LEDs to see how much of the light would be diffused. The right thickness of paint was found and all that was left to do was to cut the plexiglass into useable parts. 

Man it's tough to cut this plexiglass t.t. Although It would make the sword better i don't think it's necessary for the sword. It took forever to get that one strip of plexiglass cut so I think i'm going to hold off on putting that on the sword until at least after finals if I'm going to add it on at all.

October 13, 2013 at 2:20 AM
Comments (2)
this is an instance where a laser cutter would be perfect...
about 3 years ago
haha yea, was taking with some of the ppl at the collablab and having ALL the parts laser cut would've made this SO much easier. too bad it never occurred to me until AFTER it was too late to rework everything
about 3 years ago

The top part of the tip of the sword was starting to break, NO need to fear though, Super glue should fix it right up!

October 15, 2013 at 1:20 AM
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Here are some pictures and videos of the "final" product! The LEDs still have to be plugged in but that's fine for now, until i can find a way for it to be battery powered.

October 15, 2013 at 1:27 AM
Comments (3)
congrats on finishing! this looks awesome! just wondering if you thought about putting the battery source in the hilt of the sword.
about 3 years ago
Does this even run on batteries? The IR control box you're using draws a fair amount of power, with different colors corresponding to different currents. Can you think of any way to make this sword mobile?
about 3 years ago
wow this is really well done! looks like you've picked up a ton of new design & fab skills. Way to go! :-)
almost 3 years ago

Went to the Artisan's Asylum and was told that the sword could be battery powered! So we soldered a plug onto the battery pack and when tested it worked! It took a while since the batteries were being uncooperative. 

Brought it to the computer clubhouse where I was able to take apart the white "control box" and have just the circuit, I stripped the wires, (after taking off the grip t.t) and soldered the wires from the LEDs directly to circuit board's wires, eliminating the need of the connector pins, that were unreliable at times. The sad thing when soldering was that the LED wires and the wires from the box didn't have their green and red wires correct and so I had to adjust and resolder, after soldering all the wires once. Then took the circuit board and the IR sensor and put them at the bottom of the sword end and taped it all to the sword handle.

Tested the sword at home and found that it requires a minimum of 6 AA batteries to power the sword.

All that remains now is to decide:

whether to use 6 or 8 batteries,

how to orientate and attach the battery pack,

and to put another grip on.

October 28, 2013 at 1:30 AM
Comments (7)
nice! I was wondering if you could replace the 6 AA batteries with 1 9V battery (so it would take up less space)?
about 3 years ago
*And if you are able to use a 9V battery, perhaps put it in the handle?
I dunno if you've heard of Volpin Props, but he did a similar thing for the Mass Effect M8 Assault Rifle http://www.volpinprops.com/mass-effect-m8-avenger-assault-rifle-2/
about 3 years ago
The problem with powering it with only 9 Volts of power is that it has just barely enough power to turn on the sword and it doesn't have enough power to turn all the different light settings.
I just tried with a 9V battery, it lights up but not as bright and it can' run colors like white and such
about 3 years ago
Do you guys know of any alternatives? that could give 9-12V yet still be space efficient?
Yeah I've seen some of his works, they're awesome, I don't think I can put the battery inside the handle though cuz i still need to put the grip on it and I would want the battery to be replaceable for when it runs out of juice
about 3 years ago
how about 2 9V batteries in series? perhaps would just save a little bit of space compared to the AA batteries, but could be worth a shot.
about 3 years ago
I have poked a few of my EE friends on hall, there have been several suggestions/questions. One suggestion was to check hobby king because they might have rc batteries? But this particular EE was somewhat distracted and I don't actually have any more information on that to give you. The other EE, who was more helpful, I think, asked immediately how many of the LEDs you had in parallel. I said you were using strips, I dunno if you're using one big one or not, but if you aren't already, maybe use two strips in parallel, one down each edge? Another option could be EL wire. Where are you planning on putting the batteries currently?
about 3 years ago
I believe I have your answer!

My Infinite Mirror project demands a similar voltage potential (18V) but it's actually possible to acquire this voltage W/OUT using multiple batteries! Also, if you're considering to use rechargeable batteries, I'd really recommend only one - it gets dangerous trying to recharge too many batteries at once.

Surprisingly, I'm only using one 3.7V 2000mAh LiPoly battery. I talked to my EE professor and he mentioned using a Voltage "Boost" Converter to increase the potential from 3.7 to 18. Crazy, right? Actually, these boosters are extremely common in electrical appliances, and are available online in many varieties. Feel free to check my page out to find the links I used!
about 3 years ago

I tried the 2 9-volt batteries as was suggested and it worked! they were able to power the sword AND they're space efficient.

After testing to make sure the batteries would work. I took 2 9 volt battery connectors and super glued them onto the end of the sword handle. I then soldered the wired so that the circuit would have 2 batteries in series connected to the circuit board. This way you can just attach batteries on the end of the sword and you're good to go!

I then put on another black tennis grip so that it goes well with the whole black theme AND it would be easier and more comfortable to hold.


Now you just need to hide the controller somewhere and then you can be on your sword color changing way :P.

potential video of the final product incoming.

November 10, 2013 at 12:31 AM
Comments (1)
glad to hear that the 2 9V batteries worked! looks like it fits nicely in the handle as well. seems like the wireless version of the sword might be a "branch" of the original version that gets plugged into the wall. maybe you can try showing it as a branch?
about 3 years ago

I had been determined to bring my sword to Anime Boston. But I was concerned about the batteries being battered around. So I wanted to bound the batteries to the sword. 

 

I decided to that I could do this simply with a few strips of velcro. Using this method I super-glued velco to the angle so that I could wrap the velcro around the batteries two-ways (in a sort of x formation). This way it couldn't be knocked down using one degree of freedom. This also allows for the batteries to be easily replaced. 

April 19, 2014 at 10:31 PM
Comments (1)
creative use of velcro!
over 2 years ago